Green Bay may be the land of the frozen tundra, but even in winter there is much more to see and do than simply trudge through the snow. Through the ages—from glaciers to boreal forests to Paleo-Indians, from Winnebago to French and then British occupation, from Fort Howard to paper mills to a beloved fan-owned football team—our state’s oldest city has offered up a frontier for exploration, while retaining much charm and history.
Jean Nicolet is credited with the discovery of the area in 1634. He was commissioned by Samuel de Champlain, then governor of New France in Quebec, to find the much-rumored New World—which reportedly held an exotic race of mysterious “People of the Sea” and a wealth of wildlife. The People of the Sea turned out to be the Winnebago, and the stories of abundant wildlife attracted French trappers to the area for bear, wolf, and bobcat furs. The first reported permanent settlers to Green Bay, in 1765, were family members of Charles de Langlade, a half-French, half-Ottawa chief. The English eventually drove out the French, and laid claim to the land until the early 1800s, shortly before the American military post Fort Howard was built.
The fur trade eventually gave way to forestry, ice-harvesting, and paper mills. Despite a still-strong paper industry and a population that has grown to some 103,000 people, Green Bay is known worldwide mostly because of the Packers. But beyond the football, there are miles of hiking, biking, and ski trails, and several wildlife preserves. The arts community thrives, and the city has been even greener of late with the Sustainable Green Bay Initiative. The committee sets and monitors short- and long-term goals for the community in the areas of energy conservation, water and air quality improvement, brownfield remediation (cleaning up often-contaminated abandoned, idled, or underused industrial and commercial facilities), and cleaner transportation, among other initiatives.
History
Brush up on local history at the Neville Public Museum. Its permanent exhibit “On The Edge of the Inland Sea” guides visitors through the past lives of Green Bay and Brown County, from the end of the Ice Age through the mid-20th century. Displays include ancient pottery, Ford Howard relics, and a 1929 film on harvesting ice from the bay. Another exhibit commemorates the Peshtigo Fire, which claimed 12,000 lives but was eclipsed in historical accounts by the Great Chicago Fire, which started on the same day in 1871. See the Arts section below for more on the Neville. 210 Museum Place; (920) 448-4460, www.nevillepublicmuseum.org.
The Oneida Nation Museum in nearby De Pere offers further historical flavor. The tribe established itself here in the mid-1800s after being removed from its native lands in New York. To best enjoy the exhibits of Oneida artistry (raised beadwork, corn-husk dolls, baskets, and contemporary art) arrange for a guided tour that includes a language lesson and trail hiking on the property (groups of 10 or more, $3.00 per person). W892 County Road EE, De Pere; (920) 869-2768, museum.oneidanation.org.
A state park operated by the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, Heritage Hill State Historical Park is really a 49-acre outdoor museum. While the 25 historic buildings, some dating from the 1600s, are closed in the winter, the park’s pathways remain open for exploration. The park is lovely in all seasons. 2640 S. Webster Ave.; (920) 448-5150, www.heritagehillgb.org.
One of the largest museums of its kind in this country, National
Railroad Museum, is a
treasure trove for train lovers. See refurbished engines and passenger cars and
play with a model train system so large it has its own building. Discover the difference between a four-wheel switcher and a Big Boy (hint: it
has to do with the way the wheels are arranged). The Pullman Porter exhibit
explores the impact of the railroad on American culture. Don’t miss the artsy
collection of Bauer “drumheads,” historic 1900s advertisements originally
displayed on the last car of passenger trains. 2285 S. Broadway; (920)
437-7623, www.nationalrrmuseum.org.
Nature
During the winter months, the flora, fauna, and outdoor activities at the Bay Beach Wildlife Sanctuary make it a popular destination. Part of the Great Wisconsin Birding & Nature Trail, the sanctuary houses animals in various stages of rehabilitation before being released back into their natural habitat. See a variety of Wisconsin critters including wolves, bats, snakes, and otters, plus the outdoor birds of prey exhibit boasting bald eagles, owls, and hawks. Scout for animal tracks—and animals—on six miles of sanctuary hiking and ski trails. 1660 E. Shore Dr.; (920) 391-3671, www.baybeachwildlife.com.
Commune with nature any time of the year at the L. H. Barkhausen Waterfowl Preserve in nearby Suamico, with its nine miles of hiking and ski trails and an indoor Western Shores Interpretive Center. Come back in October to watch the annual migration of geese, green-winged teal, and widgeon, among other species. 2024 Lakeview Dr., Suamico; (920) 434-2824.
The Green Bay Botanical Garden, always a treat from May through October, is available in winter too: come for the indoor Ikebana (Japanese flower arranging) Show in January, then head outdoors to snowshoe through the 47 acres of gardens. 2600 Larsen Rd.; (920) 490-9457, www.gbbg.org.
The Arts
When it’s too cold to enjoy the outdoors (you know, those days of -20°F windchill), take it indoors. In addition to regular and traveling exhibits, the Neville Public Museum hosts Studio 210, where local painters, potters, and other artists actively pursue their crafts and sell their creations. And on the last Thursday of each month, it’s poetry night, with open mic at 6:30, plus a featured reader. The museum hosts its 64th Art Annual through February 1. 210 Museum Place; (920) 448-4460, www.nevillepublicmuseum.org.
Many other art venues grace the city: the Meyer Theatre hosts national, regional, and local performances, from singer Dennis DeYoung to stand-up comic Drew Hastings. 117 S. Washington St.; (920) 433-3343, www.meyertheatre.org. The Weidner Center for the Performing Arts is the place for big names and Broadway productions and home to the Green Bay Symphony Orchestra during its regular season. 2400 Nicolet Dr.; (920) 465-2726, www.uwgb.edu/weidner/. Gallery Night is the third Thursday of each month. Be sure to check out the studio experience at the ARTgarage. Gallery Night: (920) 437-5972; The ARTgarage: 1400 Cedar St.; (920) 448-6800, www.theartgarage.com. For music-for-the-soul (as opposed to soul music), try Cup O’ Joy, which is staffed by 80 volunteers and has attracted Christian artists and music-lovers for the last 18 years. 232 S. Broadway; (920) 435-3269, www.cupojoy.com. Check out the local talent at the Robert Lee Brault Playhouse, housed in a converted mid-19th century church. 122 N. Chestnut Ave.; (920) 435-6300.
Stay
Most of the lodging in Green Bay is geared toward business travelers, football fans, and families. For a romantic getaway, try the city’s only bed and breakfast, the Astor House. Built in 1888 on land owned by Titanic victim John Jacob Astor, the building is on the National Register of Historic Homes. The five themed rooms take guests to London, Vienna, Marseilles, Hong Kong, or the American Southwest.
Call in advance to ask proprietors Greg and Barbara Robinson to stock your suite with champagne and chocolates. Onsite, pamper yourself with a long, scented soak in a spa tub next to a crackling fire. The next morning, you’ll enjoy a sumptuous breakfast in your suite, featuring one of Barbara’s house specialties—delicacies such as blueberry sour cream coffeecake, poached pears, or cinnamon-stuffed coffeecake. If you’re up for a cool morning excursion, take a stroll through the neighborhood, past pretty Victorian homes, all trimmed and turreted. The Astor House is located close to downtown attractions, including the Broadway shopping district, and is non-smoking. Rooms have televisions, phones, and CD players. 637 S. Monroe Ave; (888) 303-6370, www.astorhouse.com.
Eat
There’s a reason Kavarna has been around for almost 20 years. This casual little coffee shop delivers great-tasting, socially responsible coffee, tea, vegetarian soups, sandwiches, quiches, and more. The owners admit to being “acutely self-conscious” about their use of energy and take pains to use recycled products and organic foods when possible. The café hosts “green” events, such as the Green Bay Green Drinks gathering, on the third Thursday of each month. 112 S. Broadway; (920) 430-3200, www.kavarna.com.
At Little Tokyo, it’s always mealtime—the clock displays pieces of sushi where the numbers would normally be. It’s casual and pleasant, with a large sushi bar in back and a tiny drinks bar in front. Come when you have a bit of time; the service tends to be slow, but it’s worth it: the sushi is fresh and made to order, the delicately battered tempura is light and tasty, and the fried rice contains satisfying bits of egg and veggies. 121 N. Broadway; (920) 433-9323.
Don’t miss St. Brendan’s Irish Pub. Along with warm-your-cockles traditional favorites such as Irish stew, Grandma Flanigan’s Guinness Pot Roast, and County Clare Meat Loaf, you’ll find elegant creations like Bentry Bay Scallops, sautéed with artichoke hearts, mushrooms and bacon. Large stained-glass windows above the tables each bear the name of an Irish dwelling. And if you like Irish whiskey, go for happy hour on Wednesday for $2 off top-shelf brands. 234 S. Washington St.; (920) 844-8484, www.saintbrendansinn.com.
For excellent steak and seafood, try Black & Tan Grille in De Pere. Meals begin with a lovely bread service: asiago and garlic, green and black olives, and walnut and sweet onion. Salads are crisp and fresh, and entrées are paired with carefully considered sides such as caramelized onions, garlic mashed potatoes, and acorn squash salsa. The Avocado Tempura Battered Ahi Tuna, with its light crusty exterior, is delightful. And the signature dish, The Black & Tan Filet Mignon, is served au jus, artfully streaked with a ribbon of chèvre—it really does look black and tan! To top that, if that’s possible, share some tiramisu or simply continue the evening’s theme with a slice of Black & Tan Cheesecake. Note: Wear your “big” pants. 101 Fort Howard Ave., De Pere; (920) 336-4430, www.blackandtangrille.com.
Shop
Unique boutiques: It’s easy to while away a few pleasant hours in the Broadway District where fashionable clothing, art, and home furnishings abound.
For a taste of New York City style without the high prices, visit Sassy Girl. Finds include stylish, affordable dresses, lingerie, and a great selection of designer purses. Plus, you can indulge your shoe fetish. 107 N. Broadway; (920) 432-7277, www.sassygirlonbroadway.org.
Inside Red Awning’s scented interior, you can sniff and select luxurious bath and body products. The staff will help you choose from more than 70 fragrances at a custom blending bar, and their paraffin and soy candles burn right down to the bottom of the wick. 119 N. Broadway; (920) 884-6547.
The Gift Itself is full of whimsical creations, many fashioned by local artists. You’ll find fluttery Whirly Girls (mobiles made of aluminum, steel, and imagination), Goddess Pendants (each with a special purpose), and lots of other artsy jewelry, sculpture, and high-end, hand-crafted items. They can also create custom jewelry with your gem of choice. 125 N. Broadway; (920) 433-9171, www.thegiftitself.com.
Clothing doesn’t get much hipper than the couture at Besselli. Their flirty, fashionable women’s apparel is irresistible. Sweaters, dresses, jeans, accessories…this is the boutique for women who don’t want to blend in. 201 N. Broadway; (920) 884-0202.
A trendy home furnishings store, Primal Eye also features unique personal accessories including a collection of color-splashed messenger bags. Otherwise, from hand-painted martini glasses to cool plastic chairs, it’s all about funky, mod home interior pieces. 128 N. Broadway; (920) 430-1961.
Just walking into Scanhome Furnishings is instant relaxation, with its clean lines and sleek contemporary furnishings in mostly neutral colors. But beware: you may want to refurnish your entire home! 142 N. Broadway; (920) 435-1961, www.scanhomefurnishings.com.
Manya Kaczkowski is a freelance travel, food and lifestyle writer who splits her time between Menomonee Falls and a little cabin in Wisconsin’s Northwoods.