Make a spring jaunt to the Third Coast town of Port Washington
The Lowdown
Call it the Gloucester of the Midwest. Port Washington's got it going on: the tang of "sea" air, the romance of Moby Dick-style maritime lore, the charm of New England with less lobster, more succulent whitefish. And after all, why work so hard to crack a shell when Lake Michigan perch is easy like Sunday morning?
Looking Back
Port Washington was born in 1835, the brainchild and darling of its first settler, land speculator Wooster Harrison. According to local lore, Harrison had high hopes that the loveliness and lake access of his little city would make Chicagoans eat their hog-butchering hats. Alas, Port Washington has a tragic flaw—it lacks a natural harbor. But in 1870, the federal government bankrolled the construction of a man-made harbor for ships traveling between Sheboygan and Milwaukee.
The harbor bustled from the late 19th century on into the early 20th, and the great lake proved bountiful for fishermen like the locally famous Smith Brothers, Delos and Herbert. Their legacy lives on in the Smith Bros. Coffee House, which recently replaced the Smith Bros. restaurant and fish shanty in a new development. The enterprising daughter of Delos Smith opened the first Smith Bros. establishment on that site, peddling perch sandwiches to hungry customers. Today the tradition has evolved into a gigantic seafood bacchanalia called Fish Day, billed as the world’s largest one-day outdoor fish fry, held the third Saturday in July.
Geography 101
Just 30 miles north of Milwaukee, Port Washington lies tucked within seven hills that tumble down to the harbor. With the largest collection of pre–Civil War buildings in the state and a reviving lakeside downtown mixing the hip and historic, Port Washington couldn’t have more “charming” bucks in the bank. Of course, the real sell is Lake Michigan itself: As far as the eye can see, nothin’ but blue. You’ll long for a three-day weekend to spend trying local restaurants, exploring nearby state parks, immersing yourself in maritime history, and strolling the marina, watching boats come and go.
Rooms With a View
Whether you’re after old-world charm or the “ahh” factor of modern amenities, The Port Hotel should fit the bill. A three-story (no elevators—be advised) renovated 1902 beauty, the hotel sits smack in the center of Port’s appealing downtown. You could easily spend an afternoon basking in one of its plush rooms: frolicking in the Kohler WaterHaven shower (in some rooms), reading next to the fire (most have fireplaces), or simply blissing out on the hotel’s luxurious pillow-top beds. If you’re really looking to splash out, book the Presidential Suite, with panoramic views of Lake Michigan, an in-room whirlpool tub, and wet bar. Owners Sue and Joe Zankl used warm wood, creamy walls, and period pieces in every room. Best of all, you get breakfast in bed. What could go wrong with a day that begins with a Belgian Kahlua pecan waffle? Stay overnight on Saturday and the champagne brunch downstairs in the hotel restaurant is included. Rates start at $150. 101 E. Main St.; (262) 284-9473, theporthotel.com.
If you’re in the mood for a traditional B&B experience, the Port Washington Inn offers five rooms, two of them suites, in a 1903 Victorian in a residential neighborhood. Breakfast is served buffet-style in the downstairs dining room, and the inn gets bonus points for its resplendent gardens, lake views, and commitment to life in the green lane. Rates start at $140. 308 W. Washington St.; (877) 794-1903, portwashingtoninn.com.
Retail Therapy
Port Washington’s downtown scene is in the process of reinventing itself. Admire its lakeside locale and quaint architecture on a stroll through city streets. Pick up a mocha at the newly redone Smith Bros. Coffee House. One corner of the building is furnished in global village chic, with comfy chairs, a fireplace, and wall-to-wall windows overlooking the lake. While you wait for your milk to steam, check out the Smith Bros. memorabilia. Don’t forget to take home a T-shirt or mug. 100 N. Franklin St.; (262) 268-2767.
A stop at The Basquet Case Market & Gifts should take care of everybody on your gift list. It’s jammed with fine wines, an assortment of coffees and teas, artisanal jewelry, and divinely scented candles and soaps. And, of course, plenty of gift baskets brimming with goodies. 101 E. Grand Ave.; (262) 284-8810, thebasquetcase.com.
More to Explore
Just up Highway 43, Harrington Beach State Park offers seemingly endless opportunities to immerse yourself in the grandeur of Lake Michigan. Follow one of the shoreline trails, with the lake roaring quietly over your shoulder, or set up camp on the beach for a day of reading, napping, and wading. If you can peel your eyes away from the surf, the Quarry Lake Trail offers the best of both worlds: The serene woodland spot draws browsing deer, and wildflowers cluster near a waterfall emptying into a lake. Hwy. D, Belgium; (262) 285-3015, harringtonbeach.org.
At Kohler-Andrae State Park, just two words apply: sand dunes. They’re undulating and glorious, especially with Lake Michigan popping into view over the horizon. Try the Creeping Juniper Nature Trail or the Dunes Cordwalk, and marvel at the delicate ecosystem’s unusual trees and plants. The park’s a little bit of Cape Cod right here in Wisconsin. 1020 Beach Park Lane, Sheboygan; (920) 451-4080, www. dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/parks/specific/ka.
The Port Washington Historical Society Light Station Museum, built in 1860 from Cream City brick, served as both navigational aid and home to the keeper of the light. Start at the adjacent building, an evocative little paean to maritime lore with an appealing do-it-yourself aesthetic. The eerie shhh of waves plays on the sound system in this one-room museum, crammed with shipwreck stories and artifacts from old Great Lakes vessels. Niagara, Toledo, Bohemia: By the time you leave the museum, the very names of lost vessels will send a chill down your spine.
Next, hit the light station itself, which remained active until the 1970s. Today it’s a National Historic Site. The lighthouse was restored and rededicated in 2002, thanks in part to the people of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, who footed some of the cost. Why would Luxembourgers fork over their hard-earned euros for a little lighthouse in Wisconsin, you ask? Turns out there are more people of Belgian and Luxembourg-ish descent per capita in the Port Washington area than anywhere else in the country. Volunteers have lovingly restored the keeper’s residence (complete with melodeon, phonograph, and icebox) as a remembrance of the Lewis family, who supplied three of the station’s lightkeepers between 1874 and 1934. But the real thrill is the great light itself. Take the tour up staircase after steep staircase until you reach the top. A volunteer will coach you through the panoply of railings and handholds to safely navigate the stairways. Panoramic views in every direction, with Lake Michigan sprawling below, make the light station a must-see for both history buffs and the merely curious. Opens in May. 311 Johnson St.; (262) 284-7240, portwashingtonhistoricalsociety.org.
Do or Dine
It may be small, but Port Washington packs a culinary punch. Harry’s Restaurant has what every hungry diner wants: hearty food at reasonable prices. With cozy booths, of course. Soups, sandwiches, and breakfast—served all day—make it a quick and filling option. Grab a homemade chocolate chip cookie on your way out. 128 N. Franklin St.; (262) 284-2861.
You’d be remiss to skip dinner at The Port Hotel, whether or not you’re staying overnight. Its upscale surf and turf menu features Bengali shrimp, planked whitefish, and prime rib, served in a dining room hung with heavy curtains that evoke the hotel’s rich history.
After a long day hiking the area’s lakeside trails, you might be ready to reconnect with your sophisticated side. That’s where the Wind Rose Wine & Martini Bar comes in. The bar’s owners filled this sleek space with art and created a full-on aesthetic experience that includes live music and candlelight. The menu is small but elegant—think artisanal cheese plates and chili-rubbed rib eye. For an instant pick-me-up, choose a cocktail and say its name out loud: Violet Rose Martini. The real thing’s even better. 312 N. Franklin St.; (262) 284-4800, windrosewineandmartinibar.com.
NewPort Shores Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge is all about the view. Located at the water’s edge, the restaurant is outfitted with wall-to-wall windows framing Port Washington’s 1930s Art Deco lighthouse at the breakwater. Mingle with locals on Friday night over a beer or dinner. With a menu consisting of virtually every known seafood available in many permutations, NewPort Shores has all the right bases covered. 407 E. Jackson St.; (262) 284-6838, foodspot.com/newportshores.
Find Out More
For updates on lodging and things to do, call (800) 719-4881 or visit portwashingtontourism.com. The Port Washington Historical Society (262-284-7240, portwashingtonhistoricalsociety.org) can fill you in on Port’s past glory days.
Veronica Rueckert writes from Madison.
